Col du Telegraphe and then "The Mighty" Col du Galibier

The biggest climb around Bourg d'Oisins is the Col du Galibier. Given a 10/10 in "the book", its 2646m high with a height gain of 1216m from Valloire. Its 19km long with an average gradient of ~7%. We planned to climb from the north and that route means that its not just a climb of the Galibier but also the Col du Telegraphe as well first. On its own the Telegraphe is a 6/10. The Telegraphe is a 12km climb of 878m (average gradient 7.4%) to an altitude of 1566m.

Given these numbers I was really excited to have a go at this pair of Cols. There were some considerations that meant that I actually planned this ride (other than just the route). Firstly there was the small matter of getting to the foot of the Telegraphe in the town of Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne. The shortest route (due to the landslide) was up to the Glandon and then down the other side, along the valley and park in Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne - the short matter of around 50 miles and 90 minutes driving. Second the weather - or more precisely the temperature. Given my experience climbing the Col de Sarenne I was very concerned about the distance and height gain we'd do if the temperature was as high as it was when I did the Sarenne. However the weather forecast for the Wednesday suggested it would be a relatively cool 25 Deg C so we chose that day, but with an early start from Bourg d'Oisins to get most of the climbing done before it was too hot. 

We drove off and reached Saint-Michel-de-Maurienne without any issues (clear roads all the way), and parked just down from the station (commenting that almost everywhere in France seems to be free parking whereas we'd always pay in the UK). After 10 minutes of getting the bikes and ourselves ready we set off. As the Telegraphe starts less than 1km from the main road, we headed off for 3-4km first in the wrong direction to warm up as much as we could. So we passed the car again and rode through the town and the turned right to climb the Telegraphe.

Here's the route:

The Cols of Telegraphe and Galibier from the North

The Profile

We crossed the river and went under the railway and the climb started - as with all Cols the gradient went from almost 0 straight to ~8%. My son started pulling away almost from the off and I found the first few km hard as I was not properly warmed up. However I was able to stay in the 28tooth at the rear and gradually my heart rate started to drop a little for the same level of effort - and whilst it was not easy it was certainly much easier than it had been in the first week and my confidence grew. I was still conscious that I had a big ride ahead and it was all about pacing and took it steady.

About 1/2 way up I was passing a picnic area and was flagged down - "Francais?" was the question - "non-Anglais" was the answer. The wrong answer it transpired. The issue was that the front wheel of one of the cyclists' bikes (a brand new mid spec Trek) had completely gone out of true. He'd got it "better" with some brute force using the slats of the picnic bench but it was still very bad and he wanted to open the brakes and needed a multi-tool- so I lent him mine. He ended up having to remove the brake pads as well. Once he'd got that far the bike was as readable as it could be and I re-packed my tool and set back up the Col.

It was not a massively hard climb - the road surface was good and the gradient even, so it was a case of pacing carefully anticipating the much bigger climb to come. I reached the top in a time of 1:00:16 - I was very please with that as I'd "lost" about 5 minutes with lending my multi tool - a time of 1 hour put me at around 4800th of over 13000 so pretty good I think. Here's the requisite photo of my bike at the summit:

At the top of the Telegraphe

A quick stop to fill the water bottle I'd emptied and we set off for the Galibier. There's a reasonable and fast descent down to the village of Valloire, and then you follow the one way system round to the climb for the Galibier. The climbing starts in the village in fact and I was in the small front in the village. It then heads out past 1-2 km of ski lodges starting at 19km to go. It was actually steeper than the the overall average gradient for these couple of km and it was hard and tiring. The gradient then eased to a few % to 5-6% for quite a few km. If I was less tired I'd have been able to push on the big ring but I need to use the small and could not get a good cadence going.

As the climb progressed it started to rise at a more consistent gradient and I started to feel better as I got more into a rhythm. It continues like this up to about 10km to the summit - constantly climbing and the landscape getting progressively barren and mountainous. I passed a few cyclist on the way. There was some traffic but not a lot and the road was wide enough to be passed easily.

The 10km point marks the start of the "Big mountain". You pass a small cafe on your left (Plan Lachat) and a few 100 meters further on the road doubles back on itself and the real climbing begins.

It starts with several straight sections zig-zagging backwards and forwards for a few km. Once you are heading generally southwards again it straightens and then curves round following the contours. There is another sharp hairpin and the road now takes a more southwesterly route. It continues in this directions climbing all the while but contouring round the mountain. Its about this point that you can just start to make out the summit and see that there was snow still on the summit. It was also very windy here and the bike was blown a little around in the strong gusts coming of the summit. The gradient seemed to ease slightly here and I was able to drop into 3rd gear (34-26) and press on.

The hairpins stat again about 1.5-1km from the summit. A photographer was here and I later bought one of the photos.

At 1km the choice is to go through the tunnel (Bikes are banned) or ride up to the summit. There's again several switch backs and the gradient rises again. I was hoping to stay in the 34-28 but need to use the 34-30 for the last 500m or so. Finally you crest the summit which is quite a large area surprisingly with a car park and a lot of cyclist standing around the sign. Here's me and my son at the "top".

My son at the top of the Galibier

Me at the top of the Galibier (with my sons thumb!)

Here's a video of the last 9km of the climb (50 minutes long):

Its not actually the highest point - you can clamber a further 20-30m higher - but I was not going to do that in cycling shoes!

I stood around and enjoyed the view:

Looking South from the of the Galibier

Another view looking south from the top of the Galibier

Another view looking south from the top of the Galibier

Looking north from the top of the Galibier (the way we'd come)

Looking north from the top of the Galibier (the way we'd come)

Looking north from the top of the Galibier (the way we'd come)

After 5-10 minutes at the top all that was required was to go down again! We stopped for some lunch in Valliore. I had a very nice pasta dish

Lunch in Valloire

Leaving Valliore meant we had to ascend to the top of the Telegraphe again. It was not too hard a climb but after a lot of climbing already and stopping for lunch I could not quite make it up in the big ring (my son did though). The descent off the Telegraphe was fast although there was no way I could or would live with my son's speed down the mountains.

To Summarise:

• The Galibier is the highest point that I have stood on earth
• I climbed a total of 7500ft over 48 miles at an average speed of 12mph
• 7500ft is the biggest climb I have ever completed on my bike
• Its the best climb I have ever done and the sense of achievement was tremendous

There's a Strava segment that replicates the TimToo timing points: https://www.strava.com/segments/7474237
Its an "HC" climb - 11.3miles long, average gradient 7% of and height gain of 4044ft. I made it in 1:30:12 and was placed ~2600th of 12800 - excellent I felt.

Awesome!

Col de Sarenne

After a day off the bike (my wife and I went to Grenoble and then the Musee de la Revolution in Vizille) I thought I'd try something a little different - so aimed for the Col de Sarenne - which is not in the "book" - (100 Greatest Climbs of the Tour de France). I plotted out a route that meant I would climb to bend 16 of the Alpe d'Huez and then ride a small road (the D211A) towards the village of Le Freney-d'Oisins, the rejoin the D1091 and ride to the dam at the foot of the "Les Deux Alpes" climb. I'd then cross the dam and start climbing through the village of Mitzoen and then on and up to the Col de Sarenne. Once at the top of the Col I'd drop down and then ride to the Alpe d'Huez and back. It all seemed quite straightforward sitting in the camp site.

Here's the route:

I started with a bit of a warm up and then turned and headed back to the Alpe - as I was only going 5 bends to 16 I just plodded up and turned off at 16 as planned. The change in character from the Alpe climb to the much smaller D211A was significant, and was flat for a mile or so. However it then started to climb shortly after crossing the Sarenne and kept going up for some distance, firstly through pleasant tree lined roads and a few hamlets but a few miles later became a barren alpine road, cut into a sheer cliff on one side and, other than a small wall, a sheer drop on the other, there were even some tunnels.To the right you could look down on the river valley of Bourg d'Oisins from a great height. (Later we'd try and spot the road from the valley below and its almost invisible, unless there's a car moving its almost impossible to spot the road).

Here's some pictures from my Virb:

I took a video of a little of the climb, and I also descended via this route later in the holiday and took a video during the descent as well. These Videos are here:

The ascent:

The descent:

I'd not quite anticipated the level of climbing on this road and took it very steady to keep some energy in reserve. Once at the top the route was rolling for a few km for a steep drop with a number of hairpins to the village of Le Freney-d'Oisins. It was then back onto the D1091 towards the reservoir and dam of the Lac du Chambon. This (bigger) road was a good surface, and because of the landslip further along was basically traffic free. The gradient was gentler as well so the pace went up. There were a few tunnels along this part of the road and the exit of the final tunnel led straight to the dam. Here's a short video:

Immediately across the dam the lakeside road was closed (this affected the 2015 Tour de France route) and I turned left straight to a 10% gradient for a couple of km to the village of Motzoen. This was a really tough climb for some reason - the temperature was rising as well so it was hot. The road continued to climb through Clavans-le-Bas and then Clavans-le-Haut and here we were on the "Route du Col de Sarenne". The heat seemed to build and the gradient was unrelenting. As I went higher I passed the last village/hamlet of Le Perron and here the last of the tress disappeared and the landscape became quite barren. In addition the gradient changed from 6-8% to more like 8-10%. I'd managed to hang in the 34-28 gear as the lowest up to this point but from here I needed to use the 34-30 gear more often.

Because the trees had gone so the temperature rose and I got hotter as the sun heated me up and the gradient stayed high. I was getting through my water quite quickly by now - both to drink and to use some over my head and back to try and keep cooler. I was passed by one other cyclist going up and several going down. The road surface was not great but at the low speed I was climbing this was not a problem - although the descenders were very cautions. I continued to climb but it was incredibly hard work. Eventually I could stat to see what I believed must be the top and I got a lift - up to that point I was thinking that I was going to need to stop and the rate I was getting through water was starting to make me quite concerned that I was going to run out. It took a further 20 minutes or so from seeing the top to reach it and I was extremely grateful. There was almost nothing at the top though - a small sign and what looked like a ski lodge with 2 cyclist sitting outside. I wobbled along 50m or so of gravel track and sat at a bench. A woman came out and after clearly a non-French "Bonjour" from me she realised that I was English - the outcome was a cup of coffee and a slice of apple pie and ice cream, and a jug of water which resulted in full bottles:

Welcome refreshments at the top of the Col de Sarenne

View southwards from the top of the Col de Sarenne

Knackered!

The refreshments were very welcome and I rested for 20 minutes or so, then set off again, turning right to continue along the road. This immediately dropped down with a very poor surface and wound down the valley for a number of km. It then started climbing again - but not at the previous 8-10% level - more like 6-8% again and before I knew it I was entering the ski resort of Alpe d'Huez from the back. A short ride through the village and back on to the descent and I was back at the campsite

I had under estimated the ride for this day. With the climb not being in "the book" to contextualise the difficulty it was a case of take what comes - and it was very hard. I was also concerned about how close I'd come to running out of water and as a result for subsequent rides I stopped and stopped and topped up my bottled whenever I saw an "Eau potable" tap.

Cycling in the Alps - Col d'Ornon

We arrived at the camp site which is right at the foot of km 0 of the Alpe d'Huez Saturday evening and unpacked. Almost as soon as we were settled in we (my son & I) were discussing what to next do the day. I had previously decided that something at the easier end of the scale would be sensible give that neither of us had climbed a col before - that is climbed continuously for more than a couple of miles. This meant that the Col d'Ornon was the sensible choice - a 5/10 in my little book (100 Greatest Climbs of the Tour de France) and "only" 11.1km long with 643m of ascent. It was also only a few km from the camp site

So the next morning at just before 9.30 we set off. Here's the route:

The first thing to see is that we got quite excited and climbed the Alpe d'Huez as well - more of that later.

What about the Col d'Ornon? Firstly we got to the bottom after only a couple of miles riding at most - and I was not warmed up. Turning off the Bourg d'Oisins road there was a brief respite of flat and then it raised up to about 8% - and it stayed pretty well there all the way to the top. As I was not warmed up I was in the small/small gear combination (34-30) almost immediately and my heart rate was way to high. My son started to ride away from me from the off and all I could do was sit there and aim to grind it out.

The scenery was breathtaking - at first we hugged the foot of a cliff to the right and the road literally dropped away sheer to the left. Gradually my heart rate eased a little but it remained high. When I passed a hand cyclist I knew I had it easy. A km or so after that cars started coming down hooting and waving hands - a sportive of some sort was descending and I needed to keep well over to the right as the riders raced down. The route ground upwards with almost no respite - a few places might have seen the gradient ease to 6-7% for a few meters but that was it.

Onwards and upwards it went and then some where near the top (I did not know where the top was but the distance travelled seemed right) the road changed from winding to almost ruler straight and at a constant gradient, interspersed by hairpins bends. The general direction was also seemingly into a head wind (head breeze?) which made it doubly hard. The gradient wasn't steep, it just remained relentless. Finally I could see an indication that I was approaching the top, and I ground it out for another km or so and met back up with my son. After a short pause we turned round and went back the way we had just spent 40-45 minutes or so ascending.

I am not a confident descender - I am always worried about over doing it and coming off - either leaning too far and falling or going too fast and overshooting the bend - or hitting oncoming traffic. Whilst I am nowhere near as fast as my son after a few corners I was into the zone and building confidence. It was an exhilarating experience sweeping through the bends - and just like there's nothing in the UK to match climbing for 40 minutes by the same token there's nothing in the UK to match descending for 20 minutes. The only downside - sore triceps using the brakes for so long and being careful not to ride the brakes so as not to put too much heat into the tyres and rims. All too soon it was over and we were back on the valley road (escorted out on to it by a number of event marshals as well).

We rode back to the camp site but had already decided to attempt the Alpe itself - we were warmed up and the first Col had not destroyed us! We passed the camp site entrance and then then "km 0" marker which is barely 50m from the camp site. The road swings left and then you are straight into the climb, and straight up to 10%, and that's where it stays for what seems like forever. Firstly you keep looking for the first corner - or is it the 21st. Finally it seems you get there and that's the first of the hairpins ticked off. Back you turn on yourself and after a very brief respite for the corner its back to 10%. I was in the 34-30 gear long before the 1st bend and it was a case of just grinding away. Bends 20 to 17 appear and disappear and it seems to easy very slightly. 16 Sees a turning off to the right and a cafe on the corner. The same routine follows - slog up to the bend revel in the drop in gradient and even shift up a gear, then drop back down as the gradient kicks back up. A few bends later and we're in the village of Huez itself. Even at about 10.30am the heat is really making itself felt. Ever onwards and upwards - ahead is a police woman (gendarme) directing what little traffic there is - we've joined back on the route of the earlier Sportive and they are holding non-sportive traffic up. I'm not held up and carrt on.

At Bend 12 there's a photographer snapping away and passing me a card. I actually bought this later when we got home:

Soon I'm in single figures on the bend count and over half way. It's no easier but I think I have the measure of it. Still on and up and soon I am at 4 or is it 5? There's another junction but I ignore the sign. As I get closer I see the Sportive sign pointing to the "Sommet" and think that this must be the way - surely they're not going to get people to do a Sportive up the Alpe and not take them the classic route. I grind on below some chalets and realise at the next corner that there is no number - at that moment I realise I have gone the wrong way. I think about turning round but decide that I might as well carry on the way I am going. Finally reach the "top" - I've done it - but the wrong way - my first Cat 1 or possibly HC climb.

But I have no idea where my son is. So I meander around the "top" until I find a steady stream of people and guess that this is where I should be. Just then I see my son. Despite calling he's obviously decided to go back and he's off. There was no way I was going to catch him and I didn't bother to try. I set off down the mountain. I was very nervous for the 1st hairpin but then I am away - just let yourself gather speed until before the bend - break hard enough to get round, accelerate away and then roll to the next bend - 30+mph - then down to 12-15mph and back up to 30mph and so on. All the pain of the ascent is gone - gravity is pushing me down and onwards effortlessly. I can now enjoy the pain faces of al those ascending - that was me not 30 minutes ago. By about bend 15 I can feel the brakes getting less effective. I was more cautious from then on pulsing the brakes to avoid too much heat. And then the descent from 21 to km 0 I let it go and got up to 44mph - more than fast enough for me. Swing right at the bottom and then left to the campsite and I was done. Wheels were almost too hot to touch though!

That was it - my first Col and the Alpe d'Huez. However it was unfinished business as I went the wrong way and did not reach the TdF official finish line - another time perhaps